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It belts at the waist and has buttons cascading down the front

It seems the the line of the coat below the buttoning point is one of the key attributes and maybe the thing that most distinguishes morning dress as the edges of the jacket sweep away below the button

Suzen did that a bit, for I saw salt deployed and lemon juice instead of vinegar

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A customer offered $75, less than Gates thought they were worth in view of his costs, leading to an epiphany